Since the Rubik’s cube was invented, people from all around the world have come together to discuss the question almost as old as the puzzle itself - “Sure, I can solve it, but what now?”. By far, the most common question that I’m asked online each day is something like this: “Hi Feliks, I’m a speedcuber who averages XX seconds, do you have any advice or tips for me?”.Before I created CubeSkills, I was never able to give a comprehensive answer to that question, because it is different for every single person. I’ve designed this website to answer this very question and act as a self-service platform for all speedcubers wishing to improve their ability.I’ve decided to write up this blog post to supplement the video tutorials and act as a point of reference. This overview of how to get faster is quite succinct, and in all cases, the video tutorials should be your primary source of speedcubing tips and techniques. The hardest thing about providing a general answer to this question is that I receive it from people of all different skill levels.

1. 2x2 Cll Algorithms Pdf Writer Crossword Clue

For the purpose of this blog post, I’ll separate my advice into sections for beginner, intermediate, and advanced solvers.BEGINNERAverage: 60 secondsMethod: Beginner’s methodIf you’re a beginner solver, improvement will come pretty easily. As you work to lower your times, think about your fingertricks and whether they are comfortable, as it’s important to avoid developing bad habits which will make your life harder later on. Take a look at my to assist you with this. Practice performing your algorithms, and make sure you can do them quickly without mistakes, even if that means just drilling them if you need to. I also have a series of helpful videos in the ‘’ module which cover some tips and tricks to help speed up your solves.You’ll find a common piece of advice in all three sections, which is to simply practice. If you practice with good habits and solving techniques that I outline, you should get your solve times down to around 1 minute using the beginner’s method. You have to do the work, I can only help so much.Last but certainly not least, become colour neutral.

I believe every cuber should try to become colour neutral, and it’s far easier to do it now rather than later on. This is all probably a lot to take in, but take your time and you won’t be too overwhelmed. Once you’re ready you can move onto your next big challenge: learning F2L pairing.INTERMEDIATEAverage: 15-60 secondsMethod: CFOPThe intermediate bracket is where the majority of speedcubers sit, and can remain in for quite some time.

I view the intermediate stage of cubing as the period of time you spend learning the basic CFOP method until the point at which you’re comfortable with F2L, and know all of the OLL and PLL algorithms. Throughout this stage you will develop your understanding of how pieces move around the cube and how to solve more efficiently.When you’re learning F2L for the first time, I highly recommend learning how to solve it intuitively as per my video tutorials. It will be quite difficult to begin with, and you’ll find that doing F2L pairing in your solves will actually slow you down for a little while, so it’s important to be patient. With F2L, you really just learn by doing, and I have some example F2L videos off which you should try to model your own solves. Once you have a basic understanding of F2L, it’s again important to avoid falling into bad habits. The module is designed to ensure you stay on the right track, and highlights common mistakes as well as provides some good practice drills.With regard to learning last layer algorithms, it’s all pretty simple, but it can certainly be a bit of a grind.

Learn the PLL algorithms first, followed by the OLLs. Ensure that you learn good algorithms so that you don’t have to re-learn any along the way.In terms of other general advice, slow untimed solves are great and help enormously to boost your lookahead and efficiency. To make casual solving most effective, ensure that you focus on reducing your F2L movecount. Try to get involved with the speedcubing community, whether that be online, or via attending competitions. And of course, watch all of the intermediate tutorials in the modules marked as intermediate, as I am able to cover specific topics in far more detail in those.

Enjoy the ride.ADVANCEDAverage. Hey Feliks, love the website and blog!I run an after school 'math games' class and there are plenty of cubers there. They inspired me to pick up a Rubik's cube and relearn how to solve it. I hadn't touched one in almost a decade!I don't remember any of the techniques or times I used back then, it was just too long ago and I only cubed for less than a month.

I think I stopped because without a community and a resource like this cubing isn't as much fun.So I just wanted to post this message and tell you how great it is that you are sharing your knowledge and passion this way!Jordan. Hmm, my record is 40 seconds, and get 42-57 seconds on average. I use 4LLL, but sometimes 5LLL, if I need a diagonal. I practice often, but the lookahead is near impossible for me.

My mind just wants to always do some algorithm, so I can not look ahead. Since I started on Cubeskills, I can plan out my Cross, but it takes 7-11 seconds to enact it, F2L is 10-30 seconds, and my OLL/PLL together is 10-15 seconds.

With 4LLL I feel it is easier to look ahead to PLL, but I still do not have the mental ability do complete the algorithms without thinking for 1-5 seconds. Remembering that F2L is the most important part of the solve.In general, I agree to this, but I have to say that it also depends on where your weak points are. For example, I average about 38 seconds per solve, 3 to 4 for the cross, about 15 for the F2L and about 20 seconds for the last layer (4LLL, and I have to train my recognition and my fingertricks more). So for me for example, F2L is at the moment not the most important part of the solve because it is not my weakest point at the moment. I have to train the recognition and my fingertricks for the 4LLL more at the moment. So, the most important part of the solve is the part which is consuming the most of your time during a solve.

Hi Cedric R.,watch the video from Felks Zemdegs on the platform. There he gives some advice.

But I don't think that your weakness is the OLL. I think you should improve your move count in your f2l and then your time will increase. I also think that you should know, whether you have to make a U or a U' after you've done your first fish move. Then you would be more efficient.

I needed a long time to learn full OLL, but I would recommend you to learn it in blocks- like it is shown in the OLL agorithm sheets (CubeSkills).Happy Cubing! I have been cubing for 3 month now, and i'am averaging of 5 on 26 and my pb is 21.79. I wanted to learn full oll but its quite hard and i fand that g perms are akward ( i don't want to learn them).i have problems with my f2l and lookahead and also with the x cross. I finish cross and f2l on 22 seconds and sometimes on 17.

Soo what are you're best advice to be sub 15 f2l and to memorize algs faster. I want to average sub 20 for the next month becausethere is my first competition. Thx for responding!ps: sorry for my english ( im not english so try to not send me videos) and ihave a shitty cube.( mf3). Hey Feliks,I was sub 20 three months ago. Then I thought I'll take a week's break but I just lost interest. I started again a month and a half ago and now during a casual warm-up solve I would average 19.9seconds.

I have known full OLL and PLL for 6 months now. I do not know any other alg subsets and cannot improve. This greatly discourages. I have been recently practicing slow solves using a metronome. Once warmed up my cross-f2l transition is not bad.

I usually finish f2l in 12.5 seconds and LL in 6 seconds. What should i do? Hey Feliks,I was sub 20 three months ago. Then I thought I'll take a week's break but I just lost interest. I started again a month and a half ago and now during a casual warm-up solve I would average 19.9seconds.

I have known full OLL and PLL for 6 months now. I do not know any other alg subsets and cannot improve. This greatly discourages.

I have been recently practicing slow solves using a metronome. Once warmed up my cross-f2l transition is not bad. I usually finish f2l in 12.5 seconds and LL in 6 seconds.

What should i do? Hey Feliks,I was sub 20 three months ago. Then I thought I'll take a week's break but I just lost interest. I started again a month and a half ago and now during a casual warm-up solve I would average 19.9seconds. I have known full OLL and PLL for 6 months now. I do not know any other alg subsets and cannot improve. This greatly discourages.

I have been recently practicing slow solves using a metronome. Once warmed up my cross-f2l transition is not bad. I usually finish f2l in 12.5 seconds and LL in 6 seconds. What should i do? Waiting for your answer.

Yes, I know full Pll, but my G perms are slow and I usually always rotate just to solve an F2L pair, if i see an F2L pair paired up then I can just insert it without rotating. My F2L takes around 12-15 seconds, Oll is 1.5-2.0 and pll is sub 3. I average sub 20 (18.451) with my Weilong GTS2. I have a youtube channel At DuckyCuber01 on youtube so if you could show me how to inprove on lookahead in the comment section of my vids then that would be great!:) also I tightened my aolong v2 a TON so that i can't turn fast and that would force me to look ahead. Do u think this is a good stratey for lookahead or not? I have a pretty high TPS, but I pause about a total of 4-7 seconds in my solves.

Shankar S, can u or Feliks please respond to this question? Hi Nathan again, I am a 15 second solver with a PB of 9 seconds. I saw some of your videos on YouTube and what I would recommend to reduce pauses is to turn slower so you can see more pieces while solving F2L. If I have a case where I can spam TPS but after I have no idea what I’m doing next, then it’s better to just do it slower so I can look ahead. No matter what, you can turn as fast as you can if you know what you’re doing next. Learning full OLL is a big help but you can do it casually. (Learn 1 or 2 algs at a time until you can recognize and use them in your solves.) also if you only solve on white, being able to solve on yellow as well is a big help because if you have a bad cross on white or a great cross on yellow, your cross planning will take less time.

I hope this helped you and God bless:). My main cube is a Qiyi valk 3 M and I do feel that having a magnetic cube is a huge advantage. I personally like gan cubes the best, but my valk is stickerless so I like it better than my UM.

I’ve watched many reviews on YouTube and the gan 356 air SM seems like the best cube on the market right now. When I first got a magnetic cube, it slowed my times, but once I got used it it, it did help with stability and turn accuracy. The valk 3 M from the cubicle has weaker magnets than the UM so I don’t think that the valk would help with turning accuracy as much as the UM or SM. If you like your weilong, there is also a magnetic version but I’ve never tried that one so I can’t tell you if that would help or not. For tips on yellow cross I would suggest starting slow. Don’t speedsolve at first because you’re not used to the different color scheme. The F2L colors are the same so it’s easier than learning to solve full color neutralist avoid white pieces until last layer.

Since your crosss and last layer colors are opposite, if you plan a yellow cross the exact smae way you would plan a white cross (orange to the right of green, red to the right of blue etc.) you will find two of your edges will be in their opposite positions while the other two are solved and if you algign them it will have the same effect on the other two. What you can do to fix this is to instead of remember red to the right of blue or something like that, you would just remember orange to the right of blue or red to the left When I first learned to solve on yellow I was about a 40-45 second solver and still used intuitive F2L. (I was horrible with it and not too great at planning crosses good crosses either).

As I learned to plan better crosses, on white I used the same concepts with yellow. Therefor I never really experienced switching and it took me about a week to learn it. Just do every solve on yellow to expose yourself to as many crosses and casss as possible but do 10-15 solves every day to maintain what you’ve learned on white. Sorry if this is long and again I hoped this helped:). I don’t have a YouTube channel but I am on the WCA website. I’ve only been to one competition and tbh I did pretty bad even at the time I was disappointed.

To reduce rotations the easiest thing to do is turn with U moves on last layer instead of doing Y rotations and lining the blocks up. Once you’ve done that it should save maybe 1 or w rotations. Another thing is to try to plan rotationless crosses and even though this is fairly advanced, use wide U turns when efficient (cross edge in RF positition and can be solved by u’,R,u) another tip is if your last turn in your cross is a D or D’ to align, if you know your first pair then you can also do a u or u’ to align your cross depending on if it will orient your first F2L pair’s edge. Again this tip may. To be useful now but will be in the very near future. Practice slow solves and lookahead during F2Lto know if you need to do a rotation to solve your next pair or not and how you will solve it. Hope this benefits you and can’t wait to hear how much it helps:).

Thank you so much Ethan, I love stickerless cubes, but i got my weilong gts2 in black so it is ok, a kid at my middle school has a gts2 m lite (stickerless) and i thought that i could just get a magnetic conversion kit from the cubicle.us and make a magnetic gts2, i think that a magnetic cube will help my speed, and accuracy, because I +2 lots of solves. I do pretty well on last layer (i suck) and I do AUF's (adjustments of U face) to avoid rotations I recently have been practicing solving my white and yellow crosses with a blindfold on (after inspection) so keep me posted Ethan! Learn things like vls, cls, wv, ble, f2l, coll, zbll, and keyhole these will help you improve your times.2.

Get good speed cube. Check out some cubes like wailing its v2 gan valk etc. Find witch is comfortable.3. Practice in the 15 sec range practice f2l it takes up most of the solve and can drop your times by a lot learn all 77+ f2l cases. Has some good tutorials.4. If you hit a wall practice some other cubes such a skewb, megamix, pyramix, etc.

I found that this helps a lot. Or just take a week brake from cubing. Hi Feliks!I'm a speedcuber in around the 16-17 second range. I average about 2 seconds for cross, 7-8 for F2L, and 5 for LL. I'm color neutral, know 2LLL, and know some random 1LLL tricks(Learned from JPerm and You). I know almost all of COLL(Need to know one half of L; 2/3 for S and AS), know a few VLS algs(Mainly WV and MW) and know one ZBLL(The one on AS/HPerm).I can find my cross pieces pretty quickly; only using 4 of my 15 seconds.

Should I use most of the remaining time to inspect for the first pair? How do I improve on LL?Are there any other subsets I should know about?Jacob(creepcrafting56: )My website that really isn't good: https://creepcrafting56.wixsite.com/rbcubingcpcf56. Max, I said to try to get sub 3 for 1-look or 2-look.

And for the EO side of things, doing that will prevent you from F R U R' U' F' f R U R' U' F' which takes too long for me if I do two looks because that's already 1 second, and then doing an ES OLL afterward. And by one look, you can just use the All Corners Oriented algorithms to orient, because it preserves CO.

So if you get OLL 48, you can just use OLL 28, then you have no pause into Pi. The All Corners Oriented Algs are OLL 20, 28, and 57. They're not that hard to learn.Also, I interpreted Pure OLL wrong, I thought it was just OLL w/o dot cases. But it isn't.

Max Chan, Beginner's Method is something to start people off on learning the mechanics of solving a cube all it's doing is dividing the steps into extra parts: Cross still the same, F2L: Corners and then edges, OLL: Edge orientation(P4/T2), Corner orientation(OCLL7), PLL: Corner Orientation (Aa/Ab/Y Perm), Edge Orientation(Ua/Ub Perm). It may send them in the wrong direction in terms of F2L but lets them get used to memorizing algs and learning to do the cube more intuitively in my opinion and experience I wouldn't have been able to learn F2L if it were given to me off the bat the Beginner's Method F2L eased me into F2L and helped me understand the mechanics of solving the cubes better and helped me memorize algs quicket. @William Yang That's what I did too. I taught myself LBL, then picked up more efficient ways to do Aa Perm, then U Perms. Once I was sub-50, I taught myself the Y Perm, and optimized my last layer.

Sub-40 was when I learned 4LLL(Keep in mind, the U Perms were RU and my OLLs were still composed of Sune and Left Sune). Then, after getting a better cube(Duncan Quickcube), I got to sub 30, averaging around 27s. Then, I learned intuitive F2L, which brought my times down to 23.

Then I started to learn more PLLs. I learned all the PLLs over a 3 month period, which got me to around 22. I got a new speedcube(Weilong GTS2), and learned full OLL and optimized my PLL's, by using the algs I use now. I averaged 18 at the time.

Learning more F2L algs, 1LLL algs, ZBLL, WV, and MW brought me to sub-16. Then just by practicing F2L and drilling LL algs, I was able to get to where I am now- Sub-15. Speedcubing for half a year now has brought me to sub-15, and in the future, sub-10.(Algs I use now: ). So I made the switch to cfop from beginner's right at about 1 minute solves. I learned 4lll and my times almost instantly dropped to 40 seconds average. I've heard some people say that it should be easy to get sub-20 or at least sub-30 with 4lll, but there's my problem. My times haven't gotten better over the past month or so, probably about 500-800 solves there.

I need to improve my f2l lookahead a lot and probably switch to algorithmic f2l, but my question here is about the third layer: Should I learn normal full oll and pll, or would it be a good option to skip oll and most of pll by learning coll? It seems like a much better option on paper, since i would have to learn 40 algorithms instead of 78 and the only added step would be yellow cross, but I already do that for 4lll so that wouldn't hurt my times in the short term. But in the long run, how should I go about learning algorithms for the last layer?And for extra brownie points, any advice on learning advanced f2l? @Ryder Fleming For last layer, learn PLL, then OLL. And for COLL, don't learn it until like sub-15. And for F2L, don't learn too many algs, but also learn enough useful cases, especially for Corner on top Edge in slot cases. Advanced F2L means that you learn more things alongside with the intuitive things such as Keyhole, Sledgehammer, VLS, WV, and learning some algs.

Although most of the time it's bad, you need algs because there are really bad cases that can be solved way more efficiently than what you might do for intuitive.Btw, I'm a 13 second solver with the following times for each step:Cross: 2F2L: 7OLL:2PLL:2. @Paul Lee, it has something to do with ratational symmetry.

Basically, you can solve some cases from multiple angles which makes them less likely to occur than other than others. For example, you can solve an E perm or Z perm from two directions making them occur twice as rarely as say, a T perm which can be solved from one angle. With an N perm you can solve no matter the angle mak8ng it one of the rarest PLLs there is (thank god).

The same is true for OLLs and and because there is more cases, the symmetrical ones are even more rare such as the case with all oriented corners and flipped edges which I believe is the rarest case in CFOP. Hope this helped:). I have several questions. Sorry for the many questions.I’ve been speed cubing for about 8 weeks now. I’m trying to be disciplined in my progress, and want to develop good habits and focus on the right things at the right time. I learned 4LLL, then full PLL, and now I’m working on efficient cross and F2L. My finger tricks and look ahead are almost all what have naturally emerged.

I hope to focus on those after I have my F2L game significantly more efficient. I’ve timed a couple 45 second solves, but I haven’t been timing since I started learning full PLL, and I’m sure I’ve done some solve much faster than my 45 second solves.I notice you often use R U R’ simple inserts. I think you’ve recommended those over inserts with F moves, perhaps except sledge. I often do R’ F R F’, especially when coming out of F2L case 3. I feel like this is faster, than doing the U (R U R’) in this case, especially because I can just over-rotate the R’ without slowing down.

I only do this in front slots. It’s an awkward move in the back, so I stick with the simple insert for the back slots. What’s your advice here?I notice you tend to rotate before doing a simple insert with R U R’.

I wonder if avoiding the y and doing F U F’ is faster. I’ve been doing the F moves with my thumb to keep from having to switch my grip for the pointer finger F. Is this a bad habit that will slow me down later? If so, tricks for fast rotations might be a good video suggestion.I’ve begun collecting and testing multiple models of cubes.

It’s surprising how different the hardware feels. I tend not prefer a cube that is not sloppy-loose. My GAN Air SM came super lose.

I switched to the yellow springs, and it’s much better, but I might still want it to be a little tighter. How do you prefer your’s configured? I haven’t fully committed to color neutrality. I find the visual helps me as I’m learning, until I have muscle memory built.

I do most of my practice with a white cross, but I do work in color neutral practice sessions for maybe 5% of my total practice time. Should I be spending more time on color neutrality to begin with?I have found I have a difficult time doing U2’ moves, as I’m using my left middle finger as a big piece of my grip on the cube. I much prefer U2 moves, when my right hand is in equal or better position. Do you have any advice on this. I wonder if I just need to fore myself to work on U2’ moves, and adjust my grip as necessary.On the cross, I notice you tend to misalign the bottom layer with B moves. I have gotten used to using u moves for that purpose.

Is there a reason B moves are better than u moves, or am I safe to continue using u moves?Thank you! @Adam Fenn sledgehammer is okay to use but I tried this doing the execution 100 times for U R U' R' and Sledge it terms of speed U R U' R' is faster and also really easy to transition to for Sledge your hands usually end up in a bad position to move on to the next pair so unless you are using a specific advanced F2L alg or at the end of your F2L stage use U R U' R'. For the next question the answer is similar unless you are on your last pair or performing a F2L alg it is recommended you use y R U' R'. Feliks uses medium tension with yellow nuts but it is still unknown if he is still using the SM or is using the 354 yet. For color neutrality don't practice with only white it is harder to transfer to color neutrality then if you don't want to commit then do dual neutrality with yellow. For your grip put both middle fingers on half of the cube's center cap this way you still have half of your grip on the cube. The last question confuses me do you mean D and D' or B and B' if D then most likely you are talking about keyhole you use the necessary move for certain situations.

If you have a edge or corner in spot with unsolved slots also say you are facing red and the blue is on the right and the corner is correctly in the slot the edge has red facing up in this case D' or D and insert it normally but if blue was facing up you would use u and insert it on the left or u' and insert it on the back.it is the same thing if the case was flipped except that it is a corner you might have to experiment for this one. Also B stands for back not bottom D stands down as in down level. Thanks for the help William!:)@Adam, here are my responses to those questions.Natural fingertricks and lookahead can be okay, but it's important to keep in mind that there will probably be things that you'll need to fix along the way. If you notice a particularly awkward fingertrick that you're doing, there's probably a better way to do it.R U R'/L U L' etc are simple, but my advice for your second example is to do U R U' R' as opposed to R' F R F', in most situations. If you're starting with your thumbs on the front of the cube (ie a neutral grip), you should be able to do U R U' R' without regripping the cube at all, and just using your index fingers for the U and U' moves. Also, it means that you won't tilt the cube at all, therefore making lookahead slightly easier.

People often tilt the cube slightly forward when executing R' F R F', and also regrip the cube in order to execute it. I'm not sure if you are or aren't doing that right now, but in summary, U R U' R' is the way to go.

Also, R' F R F' requires the F2L pair to be in the front-right position, whereas if the pair is in one of the other 3 positions (ie a U, U' or U2 away), then doing U2/U'/no move into R U' R' will be more move-efficient.I would suggest avoiding F U F' - as you say, it's pretty awkward to execute. Not many people use this at all. Rotating also allows you to choose where you insert the pair (ie back-left, or front-right).My main cube setup is pretty simple - just yellow nuts, medium tensions, and a few drops of Traxxas 50k on the pieces. Nothing fancy at all.If you plan to commit (which I would recommend), then the best idea is to just completely switch right now. Make all solves from now on colour neutral solves. There might be some teething issues, but hopefully it won't take too long if you've only been cubing for a couple of months.U2' is a matter of adjusting your grip.

When you take off your left middle finger (which is a key finger in gripping the cube), it might be worth gripping a little bit harder with your right hand in order to keep the cube stable, and with your left ring finger. One exercise to improve this is to do them one-handed.

Don't use your right hand at all, and see if you can do U2' with only your left hand, using the pinky, thumb, and ring finger to grip the cube and hold it steady.I'm guessing you mean D moves, not B moves. Wide U moves are also fine - the one disadvantage of that is that it might make looking ahead to the first F2L pair slightly more difficult, because you're moving the top layer either 90 or 180 degrees. For now, I don't think it will make a huge difference to your times, but I would recommend practicing with D moves a little bit just to make sure you become comfortable with the fingertricks for them.Cheers,Feliks. I recommend you learn the 3 basic cases and then learn the rest when you have reached around sub 20 or 30 and don't think of f2l algorithmically it is intuitive so when you do an F2L algorithms just don't execute it look at how the pair is affected before inserting the pair. Usually you lube the cube based on the type of lube it is heavier lubes are on the tracks I believe.

Medium weight lubes are on the pieces itself and water based lubes are simply put in drops in which can be shown in this video by Gan:Core lubes are simply done on the screw is. Watch this video for lubing a cubeImprove your PLL recognition by looking for a unique pattern about certain PLL that allows you to know it's that specific PLL e.g. H perm has opposite color headlights on all sides and ua perm only has it on one.I think the solve critiques are necessary also because for me I learned a lot from Feliks' tutorials but I didn't know what I was doing wrong I found out what I was doing wrong by someone better than me watching me solve and then telling me or have someone record me solving in slow motion so I can watch it myself.Sub 40 can easily be achieved by learning you PLLs and getting efficient and quicker with F2L. Solving the cube slower and speeding up little by little and get to your limit e.g. Say you start at a certain TPS if you can get through the entire solve without lockups or pauses then you are at a too slow of a speed you then speed up a little more if you experience pauses then slow down your speed at some point you will find a midfield where you get pauses but not too much time is lost this is where you practice eventually you'll develop muscle memory and subconsciously solve the pair because you think of the solution immediately in your head and you can look around the cube for your next pair this is how I improved my TPS and lookahead. In working on my OLLs, I notice P3 - 43 is y R' U' F' U F R. Why do the y, rather than than just a U?

The re-grip needed for a y seems much slower than just a U.I’ve also been working on color neutrality, doing every solve with color neutrality. I'd like to confirm the process I'm using during inspection is optimal. I often look for sides with at least one edge already aligned, which seems to be there most of the time. I’d like to look at the incorrectly placed edges before selecting a side, but I’m not that fast yet. Then I look at the cube, and orient myself to the colors of the remaining colors, by looking at the colors of the centers, starting with the color of the edge that is already aligned, and moving clockwise around the cube. Then I have the edge locations memorized, and I start looking for where they are now, so I an prep myself to a quick cross solve. This is still taking me more time than when I was always working with white on the bottom and red in the front, but it’s getting faster.

2x2 Cll Algorithms Pdf Writer Crossword Clue

Is this the right mental sequence, or is there a better process for picking a side and orienting myself? Oops wrong alg so for the OLL do everything except the R' F' and then if you recognize the case and so happens that it is in the right angle then do another U' R' U' R U R' and finish it with the F' in most cases otherwise you will have to finish in which there is a 2/3 chance that you will get a U' or U2 (not including the orientated state) if so don't regrip because you can go straight into the PLL after the U moves but make sure you lift your fingers off a little bit not too much but just enough to so that you can do the U'/U2 then do it and start y perm. If you get U then regrip. This is entirely based on how far you go on your slow solves if you can do it without looking at the pair you are solving then you can speed up by this I mean that go faster at a speed where it is noticably faster but not too fast that your lookahead goes out the window and you have pauses again you can tell based if you increased your speed too much by doing an untimed solve and timing how long it takes for you to find the next pair (Recommended that you find a friend or family to time you) if the pause is longer than around high 2 to 3 seconds than you are going too quickly.

If you are going too slow you will notice that you can find the next pair while your solving a pair then you increased too little. The time will be around 1-2 second pause this means you found a good speed to practice at. I'm just finishing my initial memorization of the the last few OLLs today.

I pretty much started at the top of the I did skip forward when I found two that were mirrors of each other, so I can quickly work them forward and backwards. I'd learn a couple new ones, and get the movement so it was ok, and I could do it without looking at the document.

Then I'd use the to cement the recognition. As I became more familiar with some OLLs, I'd remove those from the OLL trainer, and just work on the ones I was still having more trouble with. Sub40?If you do OLL in 3 or more steps (continuously doing the sune for corner orientation), definitely learn 2-look OLL, which is only 6 more algs.If you do PLL in 3 or more steps (Don't know diagonal corner swap, don't know Z or H perm), learn Z, H, T, and Y perms.Try and aim to reach the following cutoffs:CROSS: 8 secondsF2L: 15 secondsOLL: 8 secondsPLL: 8 secondsThen to get sub-30 do thisCROSS: 7 seconds (at most 12 moves (optimal 8 moves))F2L: 12 seconds (2.5 seconds per pair)OLL: 5 seconds (2-look, maybe know 2-3 individual algs)PLL: 5 seconds (At least 14/21 algs learned). To answer that, let me ask a few questions:1. Are you timing yourself?2. Are all the cases in your muscle memory?You shouldn't be timing yourself when you're practicing lookahead, and you definitely should execute all the cases as muscle memory and not intuitively.Whenever you're doing lookahead, you shouldn't be looking at the pair that you are doing, you should be focused on other pieces and track them as they move.If you need other help, you can just email me at instead of cluttering this blog up. Your tps should also be around 2-3 tps to be sub-30, and even sub-25(If you're LL is decent).

Yes, that is pretty restrictive, but it helps you practice on what you need to focus on for the next thing.An exersise I did was that I would do Cross and F2L at around 2-3 tps, and gradually increase it until I get a pause, which means that I didn't lookahead well. After the pause, I just rescrambled the cube and slowed down my tps.

This was very useful from me going from sub-25, to sub-20. Now that big difference was that I had a pretty good last layer already, and that, along with some pretty okay F2L, led me to go and improve my lookahead even further, which is the difference between a 8 second Cross+F2L to a 17 second Cross+F2L.So go and just practice the lookahead between pairs, and slowly, you will continue to improve and break all the time barriers(even though I'm almost sub-12). Alright, I don't know a lot about 5x5, so I'm just gonna answer your 4x4 question. I was averaging around 2 minutes when I got my Supernova Wuque M. I would recomend you buy this cube (even though it's expensive) because it dropped my times 20 seconds.

After that, I would work on your TPS for 3x3 stage on 4x4, and also get a lot of solves and be comfortable on each step. BTW, I use the same method as you, and average around 1:15s.

Also, you probably want to work on recognizing OLL and PLL parity quicker, and executing the algs for each quicker. I hope this helps!-Noah. Although buying a new cube can help it is not good in terms of habits because you are used to the cube to realign that you dont worry if you overturn although I do reccomend you get a good cube with magnets but it may be better for you to buy a non magnetic cube first and get in the habit of turning accurately and then commit to a good magnetic cube. I btw average sub 1 with my old non magnetic wuque with nothing but turning accurately I average sub 40 with my cosmic Wuque mini m. Also for 5x5 best thing I can reccomend for you is the waych Feliks' intermediate videos.

I usually average sub 2 with my Wushuang M but just For you I brought out my old ShengShou 5x5 that pops at a moment's notice and has no corner cutting and still got a sub 3 ao12. You can go two paths in terms of 5x5 which are redux or Yau. Redux is really quick in terms of centers but Yau is good for easier edge pairing which btw I think Redux is somewhat better because it gets your eyes more used to seeing edge pairs for bigger cubes and also because you can get the centers so much quicker. Now in terms of this I do reccomend yoy get a magnetic version because 5x5 is where things get a little harder to control and I have a pretty good accuracy from practicing with non magnteic cubes for 3x3 and 4x4 so I usually can get past without pop for a very long time and lockups dont happen too much during solves.

So in summary accuracy on non magnetic cubes + Magnets = little to no lockups and very rare pops. 4x4: Practice building your cross pieces efficiently, and practice your last 8 edges. I'm currently sub-1:05, and here are the splits probably required for sub-1:10:F2C: 5F3E: 15L4C: 10LCE: 5L8E: 153x3: 155x5: Build centers by bars or blocks, and use tricks during edges like instead of flipping an edge with the flip alg, take out the edge and insert into the opposite side(ex. If the edge you need to flip is on the FR, take it out with R U R'(or U' if there's an edge at BR)and insert with R' U' R.). However, I'm only sub-3, so I'm trying to improve on centers especially.Also, using Yau5 is useful, but it's different that Yau4.

And for hardware, I use a WuQue M(magnetized by the shop I bought it from), and a WuShuang. My old mains were a Thunderclap mini(Which was missing a locking piece) and a Shengshou 5x5.Hardware is very important from 4x4 and up, but you shouldn't go out and buy the best ones like a Cosmic or Supernova WuQue M.

Getting a regular WuQue, getting some magnets, and adding some Silk or Speedy will make it near that performance, and under 1/2 of the price of a Cosmic WuQue M, and $13 cheaper than a Supernova WuQue M.Magnets are always useful for 4x4 and up, since you require less active effort to keep the layers aligned, and it decreases the chance of pops. For COLL, I suggest you be around sub-20 before COLL becomes useful. Doing OLL/PLL will be faster than EO/COLL/EPLL. However, when you get EO done, you might as well do that instead, and start learning it at around sub-25.Here was my solution to the scramble and timed as well:y //inspectionR F' L F2 R U2 R' D2 //x-cross 8movesR' U R U L' U' L //F2L2 7movesL U2 L' f R f' //F2L3 6movesd' R' U R U R' U R U' R' U' R U R' U R //F2L4 + WV 16movesF R U' R' U' R U R' F' R U R' U' R' F R F' //PLL 17movesU //AUF 1move//8.470 6.493 tps 55 moves. @Felix Yu If you average the same time but you enjoy the feeling over another, use the one that you enjoy turning. It doesn't make a difference other than your morale to keep cubing@Eden Funnell It took me 1 month to learn pretty bad algs (I haven't learned G Perms yet because I was stupid) then the next month, I learned better algs(And the G Perms). Then for the next 2 months, I learned full OLL.

It only took me 4 months to learn full OLL and PLL but it takes a while getting fingertricks down.@Abhoy Modak practice your fingertricks and have efficient solutions.